Wetlander 3-Layer Coating System for hunting and fishing boats

We are now offering a 3 layer system designed for standard sized (100 ft. sq.) wood, fiberglass, and aluminum boats.  Whether you’re bowfishing, gigging,  trapping, or duck hunting, this 3 coat system will protect your hull and provide you the slip you need to get over obstacles and slide through skinny water and sticky mud.

This system is based on premise that multiple cured layers of coating are better than one thick layer.  By stacking alternate layers of coating, you are ensuring a pinhole free surface that will not allow water to migrate through to your hull.  Multiple layers also give you separate layers of durability to keep your hull protected and sliding clean, even after getting scraped and gouged.

This 3L (three layer) system arrives at your door as two separate ½ gallons, followed by a half gallon of our super slick Wetlander Topcoat; you get 1 and a half gallons total for $329, saving you $16!

Layer 1- Highly Durable/ Adhesion Primer
Layer 2- Primer/ Topcoat Hybrid
Layer 3- Friction Reducing Top Coat

Just like all of our specialty boat coatings, Wetlander can be applied by either a sprayer or roller.  It is also easy to touch up later on in the season.  Just sand the area you want to touch up, wipe it clean, then apply more Wetlander Topcoat.  It’s that easy.

By ordering Wetlander 3L as a kit, you will save $16, compared to buying (3) ½ gallons at regular price.  So – Order Now!

34 thoughts on “Wetlander 3-Layer Coating System for hunting and fishing boats

    • Works great for preventing damage to jet skis. The Wetlander coating is so slick, it vectors off the forces of the impact, minimizing damage to the fiberglass/gel coat. Over time, if there are any gouges or hot spots it is easy to touch them up with a roller and fresh Wetlander.

    • Michael,

      Yes, applying Wetlander will help seal up small holes and weeping rivets, HOWEVER, I recommend using a product made for the purpose. 3M makes a marine-grade caulk called 5200 that is perfect for sealing up small gaps that allow water to seep in. Put on the 5200, THEN overcoat with Wetlander, and you will be good to go.

      And, yes, it will stand up to 55 mph speeds.


  1. I am restoring a 72 13′ Boston whaler when I measure the bottom it seems to be about 110 sq. Will the product stretch? Or should I be looking for a different product?

    • Rick,

      When we say a half gallon will cover 100 sq. ft., that is at a very specific thickness (4 mil). So, yes you will be able to stretch it to your 110 square feet, at the expense of a bit of thickness, which is fine, especially for your style of boat. I would prefer that you use either 1 gallon of topcoat and do two complete coats, or you get 1/2 gallon primer and 1/2 gallon of topcoat, so you can get two complete coats. It is very important to get two complete coats on ANY coating project that is going to be underwater. Coatings can develop pinholes as they dry due to air bubbles popping after application. Two coats mitigates the danger of water migration through these pinholes. So, two coats are always better.

      Hope that helps.


  2. Help. I have a 17 ft Jon boat that I use for bowfishing on the snake river in Idaho. Rocks are slowly destroying the bottom of my boat . I had planned to spray the bottom with rhino liner. I saw a discussion about your product and thought I’d get your opinion about what I shout do. The rocks scrape, gouge, and bend the hull, as you know. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks jon

    • Hi Jo,

      Rhino Liner and other polyureas are great at providing you with impact resistance on sharp, gouging rocks. However, they are not slick in any way. You have to decide what is the most important thing for you and the style of boating you do… If impact resistance is the highest priority, I would lean towards a polyurea or UHMW plymer applied by a professional applicator/installer. If you want a slick and flexible coating to improve overall performance and speed, I would lean towards Wetlander (which you can easily apply yourself).


      • Would you advise placing the wetlander on top of the rhino? I saw another thread were this is possible. Thanks

  3. I just wanted to say I was skeptical at first but I am a believer this stuff works I put the three layer on my Jon boat with a sps Swamprunner and have been slamming and dragging rocks all over the river smallmouth fishing and it still gludes over the hydrilla and us much easier to get off rocks than before with only some minor scratches in the top layer.I have got several dents and it didn’t chip or come off so I am satisfied thanks

    • Yes – we have a lot of applications on dump trucks, conveyance systems and various industrial chutes and troughs. The x-factor is the level of abrasion: sharp aggregate will wear the coating away faster than soft mud/clay. I always suggest testing on one truck before doing a whole fleet.


    • It will. The slick nature of Wetlander helps keep ice from digging in and keeps you moving. It will also sacrifice itself over time, which will save the fiberglass/resin/gelcoat from taking the damage. I expect an ice airboat needs more touchups than the average temperate airboat.


  4. Is the 3L system necessary for a fiberglass freighter canoe? It is mentioned here that primer is not needed with fiberglass as it adheres easily. Also, the bottom of my freighter has some deep scratches in the bottom. Should these be covered with epoxy/resin first?

    • Bill,

      The 3-Layer system is best for areas where there will be significant abrasion. We always want people to get either a 2-layer or 3-layer system as a good foundation. The primer(s) in the 2L and 3L kits are there for longevity, not necessarily adhesion.
      If you have deep gouges, I would recommend filling them with a fiberglass resin and then sanding smooth in preparation for the Wetlander.


  5. I’m restoring a bass tracker. I has leaking rivets, I’m going to 3m them, what other preparation would I take to the aluminum and 3m before applying wetlander?

  6. I was considering applying Gluvit just around the rivets.any cracks because it supposedly weeps into the little cracks and crevices etc. as it cures, and then putting Wetlander over top of that to get even more strength and increase the slickness of the bottom. Will there be any issues with the two products adhering to one another?

    • Tim,

      There are no compatibility issues with Gluvit or Wetlander. Just apply the Gluvit according to the manufacturers specs, making sure to let it cure for the appropriate amount of time, then prep the cured surface of the Gluvit the same way as you would bare aluminum or gelcoat; sand it with 150 sandpaper, wipe with acetone, the apply your Wetlander.


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