Color Chart/FAQ


Q:  What colors does Wetlander come in?

A:  We have a wide range of colors to choose from, or we can custom match a color for you.

Click for a closer view

Click for a closer view

Q:  How do I apply the paint to the bottom of my airboat?

A:  On the average aluminum hull airboat, the basic directions are as follows:  Roughen up the bare aluminum, or a previously painted hull, with 150 grit sandpaper.  Wipe the scuffed surface with acetone to remove any oils, dust or foreign contaminants.  Then apply the Wetlander Primer using a roller or a sprayer.  Let the Wetlander Primer dry for 24 hours for the toughest bottom coat possible.  After the Wetlander Primer Coat dries, lightly roughen the surface of the primer coat with 150 to 200 grit sandpaper.  Again, wipe down the freshly roughened primer coat with acetone to remove foreign contaminants.  Now apply the Wetlander Topcoat with a roller or sprayer.  Wait at least 3 days to ensure the toughest and slickest airboat bottom.  Enjoy the feeling of  slippin’, slidin’ and ridin’ through the world faster than ever before.  (If you are using the Wetlander 3L Kit, click here for Wetlander Duro-Slick 3L Application Guide).

Q:  How long before I can get my boat back in the water?

A:  5-7 days, depending on weather conditions, and most of that time is spent watching the  bottom paint dry.  We recommend beer for watching paint dry.

Q:  What if I have a fiberglass boat?

A:  For a fiberglass airboat or a gel-coated boat, follow the same instructions as with aluminum hull airboats, but skip the primer and acetone step.  The topcoat will adhere to the gel coat and fiberglass very easily.  Just apply the topcoat with a roller or a sprayer.

Q:  What do I do with any leftover amounts of  Wetlander Primer or Wetlander Topcoat?

Easy to apply and keeps your boat easy to clean

Apply Wetlander to make all surfaces easy to clean

A:  Put it on any surface of your boat that you want to keep clean and slippery.  For example, putting Wetlander on fan cages and rudders allows you to easily hose off bugs and mud.  Try putting it in your live well, or the side walls.  DO NOT put Wetlander on surfaces that are going to be walked or sat upon.  People, dogs, and equipment will slide around and could cause damage.

Another option is to catalyze only half of your container of Wetlander, so that you can save some for touch-ups later on.  Remember, Wetlander is very easy to touch-up; there is no need to flip your boat and re-coat the entire hull.  Just reapply Wetlander in any spots that have been damaged while the boat is on it’s trailer.  Easy!

Q:  Should I use a sprayer or a roller to apply your bottom paint?

You can use either a sprayer or a roller to apply Wetlander.  We prefer rollers because they are easy to use and everyone has some experience with them.  Since our bottom coatings are water-based, cleanup is a simple wash with warm water while it is still wet.  If it drys and/or cures, you will have to use solvent and scrub it off.  If you use a sprayer, make sure to flush and clean it out immediately after use.

Q: Can I put Wetlander on top of UHMW poly?

A: Unlike other paints/coatings that cannot adhere to UMHW poly or provide minimal acceptable adhesion strength, Wetlander does in fact have a fair degree of adhesion to 50 grit abraded poly. However, the question remains “Does Wetlander adhere tenaciously enough to withstand the rigors of all-terrain abuse in airboating?”. We here at Wearlon are optimistic, but still in the testing phase. As of right now, Wetlander on top of poly does not pass our strict Quality Control guidelines and, as a result, we cannot officially advocate the application of Wetlander on UHMW poly. But, it may very well work for you and so it will have to be “try at your own risk”, knowing there is a risk of delamination.

Or, you can make a “small” investment and try the Corona Treatment

55 thoughts on “Color Chart/FAQ

    • Hi Tim,

      For pontoon boats we use a product called SF-1M, which is extremely drag resistant and works well on pontoons, seaplane floats, and other applications where increased MPH and MPG are the priority. I talked to a hunter in OR who used the SF-1M on his pontoon boat and his top speed went from 8 MPH to 18 MPH, and his boat planed out for the first time ever! Prep work is clean and scuff the aluminum, prime with Wetlander primer, then apply the SF-1M with either a roller or spray. Simple application – great results.

    • Yes, Wetlander will help stop the water from weeping through small rivet pops and small welding/seam gaps. HOWEVER, stopping leaks is not what Wetlander is designed to do, nor would I ever recommend it as a leak stopping product.
      My advice is do it once and do it right: Weld those holes shut, or, use a marine grade sealant/adhesive that works well with aluminum (5200 by 3M is one) and plug up the holes. THEN coat it with Wetlander and you should have no problems with slow leaks.

    • Charlie,
      As long as you are confident your current coating will stay on your hull, then go ahead and overcoat it with Wetlander. That being said, try to remove as much of the old coating as possible. You can use sandpaper, chisels, heat guns- whatever you think would work best to get most of the old stuff off.


  1. I recently fixed some leaking rivets and repainted the hull. I want to avoid taking the paint off completely (last time was a hassle). Is there much adhesion lost by not removing all the paint?

      • Matt,
        The only issue with putting Wetlander on top of another coating is that your first coating is what is adhering to the aluminum (or fiberglass, or gelcoat): the Wetlander is actually sticking to that first coating – not the hull. As a result, the Wetlander is totally dependent on that first coating staying on your hull. As the manufacturer, we want OUR coating on the bare aluminum because we know it will stay there!
        If you are confident in the abilities of your initial coating, leave it on and overcoat with Wetlander. If there is ANY concern about it’s adhesion, sand or grind it off, then apply the Wetlander. Coatings are only as good as the layer they are attached to…


  2. How heavy is the coating? would it add a significant amount of weight to an aluminum river canoe? I am looking to protect and slick my 17 ft aluminum canoe bottom but if it adds too much weight I won’t use it.
    2. Has anyone used the coating on snow and in cold weather? It seems like a good alternative to heavy UHMW on our aircraft ski bottoms. Again, weight would be an issue.

    • Most canoes take quart-sized containers of Wetlander (a quart will cover 50 square feet). If you were to apply the entire quart, it would only add a little over 1 pound to the weight of your canoe.
      We have airboaters in Canada, northern and western US and Alaska that coat their hulls with Wetlander for use on frozen lakes. We have coated airplane ski bottoms as well. Works great!


  3. I have a 14′ Fiberglass boat, its nothing special. Just a little fishing boat with a 4.5 HP motor. Its has a deep green paint (don’t know what type…probably a gel coat) but my cousin and I have sanded the bottom and added some fiberglass for extra strength. And have sanded the fiberglass cloth and resin. I want to paint it a different color. Leaning towards black. Would the wetlander top coat work?

    • It is always better to go with Primer AND Topcoat. The primer helps the topcoat last longer; the two products together are much longer lasting than the topcoat by itself.


  4. Scott,
    First Thank You for the information you gave me for applying to both my Alum and Fiberglass riverboats. Wish I would have GPS the jet before and after, as it is noticeably faster, the paddle john slides over shoals and rocks super. I know you are a salesman, I was afraid, EVERYTHING you told me was RIGHT. Thanks. Now my friends are wanting to go with it. Will it adhere to roto molded plastic such as a kayak? Not sure it would help my abs or royalex canoe but think it may make the yak slick???? Thanks
    Les W.

    • Les,

      Thanks for the kind words, and I am glad the Wetlander is working for you!

      Re: your plastic kayak. Sadly, nothing sticks very well to PE and roto-molded vessels. I have been testing it on my own polyethylene kayak, and while I like it, I would be hesitant to sell it as a coating for those kinds of boats. It just does not have the abrasion resistance that you would want. Those plastics have VERY low surface energy – nothing stays on them for very long.

    • Wetlander is ideal for aluminum (and fiberglass) driftboats. Here is a quote from a guide in WA and AK:
      “This bottom coating proved superior and outperformed the commonly used product in everyway possible. As far as friction goes, there isn’t any; in fact, what used to take some muscle to push my boat off the trailer, now just takes a quick shove and then the mad dash to hang-on as it departs. Loading up is just as easy and feels as though the bottom of the boat is greased. If I had to come up with one word that describes this coating; it would be: “Outstanding!”

  5. I have a 2011 G3 eagle crappie fishing boat factory silver aluminum painted can you get close to that color I am looking for more speed down to the final mph running 23 with a 9.9 modified Tohatsu jack plate stainless prop ect ect . and in reading the post here looks like mabee it would help me with a little more speed.

    Thanking you in advance

    • Rob,

      That depends on a TON of different factors and there is no way I can answer that with any degree of certainty. It will make your boat perform better in 90% of instances (launching, loading, getting through shallow water, over dry patches, stumps + logs, etc.). That’s all I can say with certainty.

  6. I have a set of fiberglass pontoon floats for my ultralight aircraft that will be landed on grass from time to time and takeoff also. What benefits will I see with your product and which product will I need to use. Thanks jared

    • Jared,

      Wetlander applied to your floats will get you less friction upon landing, and less friction upon trying to get to top speed to takeoff. I would go with a 2L kit and base the container size on the square footage of your floats.


  7. Im thinking of using your product to do complete outside of my 25 foot river boat because of durability and easy to clean am I waisting money by doing this do you give any guide discounts

    • Alfred,
      Wetlander would work very well towards making an easier to clean surface, whether you have a fiberglass or aluminum hull. We don’t offer discounts to anyone; don’t take it personally. If you want to call me directly at (518) 469-3612 and convince me why you should get a discount, I would be happy to hear your pitch.

  8. I have a 20×72″ Koffler drift boat. Obviously if it was 72″ wide for the entire length of the boat it would be 120 Sq ft. Do you think a 1/2 gallon kit would be enough? I was thinking I may get an extra quart just in case but I’d rather not do that because it will most likely sit longer than six months before I can do any touch ups.

    • Mike,

      I do think a half gallon kit of either 2L or 3L are good for your dirft boat. The way drifters are built and sized, you probably don’t have more than 100 sq. ft of COATABLE bottom on that Koffler. If you are planning on going up the sides to the gunwales a bit, then you might consider gallons…


  9. Scott,

    What can you tell us about the suitability of the Wetlander product in extreme (-40F) cold weather?
    Most of us, here in Alaska, store our boats outside all winter.
    Is the Wetlander product delaminating from properly perpared aluminum boat hulls under these conditions?


  10. Thanks, I missed my window! I’ll get to it this spring, I got good reviews for Wetlander from Joe at Koffler Boats. I’ve got 2 drift boats to do. Mike

  11. Guys: I just finishing up an Adirondacks guide boat – your product looks very interesting. Two questions – 1. Can you get it in a Matt or semi- matt finish? 2. Can you do a camo pattern with it?


    • Dave,

      The finish level of the Topcoat is basically “eggshell” or “satin”. To my eye it is not quite dead flat/matte, but it is not glossy either. Duck hunters all over the US and Canada use Wetlander and they HATE gloss of any kind, so I wouldn’t worry about it being too flashy.


      • Can it be buffed to a shine ? Also how much do you think I would need to do a 13 Boston whaler from gunnel to gunnel

      • Marcus,

        No- buffing will not make it shinier. A 13′ Boston Whaler would need a gallon of topcoat and a gallon of primer, just to be sure you have enough coating; gunnel to gunnel is a lot of surface area.


  12. Will this wetlander work for wood drift boats?
    Is it available in clear?
    Would you suggest application over the standard wood boat finish? Or, If only the bottom, should I paint directly on to the bare ply for maximum adhesion?

    • Chris,

      Yes – Wetlander is perfectly appropriate for wooden drift boats and we have many happy wooden drifters out in the world. I like for wooden boaters to apply directly over their glass/resin layer, if applicable. If it is bare wood, I would definitely recommend getting a 3-Layer kit.


  13. I have a 10.5 foot fiberglass airboat that I use in Canada, most often on unstable ice in the spring and fall. One common problem is when breaking through ice it punctures the fiberglass. Many others use UHMW poly to avoid this issue. Do you feel your product would be an adequate substitute for this application?



    • Erik,

      Wetlander is NOT better than UHMW polymer in reducing punctures, and I do not feel it would be an adequate substitution. Wetlander will help prevent your hull form sticking to ice, and it will help hulls slide better across ice, but it is not better than a 3/4 layer of hard plastic in terms of puncture resistance. Sorry.


  14. Would you recommend using your product on a jet ski? I have a Kawasaki X2 and I’m looking to paint the bottom with a durable scratch resistant paint. If so, can you advise if spraying or rolling would be better?

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